Thirty seconds in the kitchen


Allons enfants de la Patrie, le jour de gloire est arrivé when our local French embassy Casse-Croûte opened on Bastille Day 2013. Its huge popularity belies its tiny size.

We spent 30 seconds in the kitchen of chef Sylvain Soulard. Here’s what he produced.

Your menu’s full of the classics. What makes French food French?
At heart it’s really about nostalgia, les souvenirs. You want to eat what your mum cooked when you were little. Here we’re cooking things you can’t find even in France any more – Coquilles St Jacques, for example.

What French food do British people remain frightened of?
Andouillette, of course, sausage of all the intestines. Veal face – tête de veau. Sweetbreads too.

Sylvain’s pig feet are superb too. Only two ways to experience them. Book your seat two weeks early in this tiny place of wonder. Or avez de la chance and walk in.

Casse-Croûte was modelled by patron Hervé Durochat on fabulous old school Paris brasserie, Chez Paul. The only thing that would improve our Bermondsey St version would be priority booking for Jam residents. Ecoutes, Herve! Méchant!